Interview with Stanford Row's atelier Kathy Wilson.

This week: I talk to atelier owner Kathy Wilson about her take on bespoke design Kathy and husband in the studio Me: Oh Kathy I am very excited about catching up with you, your designs have captured something quite unique and they display the quality and skill that fills me with confidence and appreciation for your craft. So tell me a bit about your work? Kathy: "My atelier launched after I designed a jacket for Stevie Wonder that he wore to the President Obama's first White House Correspondents' Dinner. I am a menswear and womenswear designer who started on red carpet pieces for celebrities under Richard Tyler Couture.  I love doing gowns and suits but after researching where the market was moving, I decided to launch a contemporary line during my participation in a reality show called "All On The Line with Joe Zee" for Sundance Channel." Me: That is really quite exciting. Would you tell us about your atelier, what is the space you work in like?

Kathy: "I design out of my home studio in Brooklyn. I sketch and drape on my dress forms here.  Then I get my samples done and take sales appointments out of my showroom in New York's garment district." Me: What made you want to make your designs bespoke? Kathy: "My introduction to bespoke clothing came from my first job at Richard Tyler.  It was where I learned how to measure and make beautiful clothes inside and out." Me: And appreciate that no doubt So what are your personal thoughts on bespoke clothing? Kathy: "I love bespoke clothing but it is very hard to find customers that understand the artisanal quality and care of this type of work.  Most consumers follow trends and don't have a sense of quality that bespoke customers understand." Me: Beautifully said, I am really passionate about helping people become more confident and savvy dressers, I believe bespoke is something people are beginning to appreciate more an more. In terms of your work what are the most pressing challenges you face in this current time? Kathy: "I find that Americans are all about sales.  Black Friday and getting a great deal has programmed people to only buy things on discount.  It turns people in hoarders instead of people that love things that they can hold onto and resell later on." Me: Amen! That is the reality, it seems a transformation of peoples thinking is what is needed, one genuine item at a time. The thing I find the biggest difference with bespoke as opposed to mass produced, is the relationship. Suddenly you have a relationship with the person making your garment, I am curious, how do you personally work with your clients? Kathy: "I generally have clients that see my work and then make request for a suit or a dress.  Then I ask them what their budget is because I want to make sure I go under budget.  I proceed by asking them what they like and don't like about their body.  I ask about fabrics, colors, cuts, and then I take their measurements.  I create three sketches and then they get to pick which one they want to make.  Sometimes, they make all of them."

Me: Now that sounds like fun. I can absolutely see the temptation to then have all three. This is what excites me about the process, you can discuss figures and flaws and tastes and really get it right. Ok let’s play. Your designs are obviously gorgeous, you have been spotted by a notable person in need of an outfit for a special event, who would you really like to dress in your designs? Kathy: "My dream client is Angelina Jolie because she is a beautiful person on the inside as well as on the outside.  That my ideal client in general.  I want to dress people that make a difference in the world in a positive way." Me: Oh, lovely! Now which item from your range on Stanford Row would you tailor make for them and why? Kathy: "I would make her the Iris dress because it combines softness with the purple silk burnout fabric and some edginess using the black lambskin leather.  It is feminine but conveys strength." Me: She would look superb in this dress, showing off her cleavage then accentuating the hip curve. So back to you, how did you get here, were there some key moments or can you see the trail? Kathy: "My mom owns a salon in the Silicon Valley that I used to help out at in order to spend time with her.  As a result, I was surrounded by very successful women that inspired me to design for the woman I wanted to become. When I went to FIDM in Los Angeles I landed an internship with Richard Tyler and got hired after my third day as an intern.  I started working with celebrities before I graduated and learned all about impeccable tailoring from him. I left my job there to be with my husband during his military service.  It took us to Japan where I got to live for three years taking in fashion inspiration.  I designed gowns for some of the military wives and learnt about manufacturing overseas. When I came back to the states, my husband suggested we go to New York to help me get back into fashion.  I had many custom clients and made a profit on my first orders. Then I got a request from Stevie Wonder's people to do a jacket for him.  When I delivered it, they decided that he would wear it to the White House Correspondents' Dinner the following day." Me: Oh my, tell me more... Kathy: "It was the best day of my professional life. I met Stevie Wonder's wife for lunch at Villa Blanca in Beverly Hills to deliver his jacket.  Afterwards, we walked to her studio where she asked me if it would be okay to have him wear it to the White House.  Then she showed me the collection she was working on for Michelle Obama and I got to touch all of the dresses and give her my thoughts.  It was amazing." Me: Who would you say has influenced you the most, and where could we see that influence? Kathy: "Richard Tyler. In the way I finish my custom garments." Me: And Kathy, what would you say to people who are thinking about taking clothing out of the hands of mass producers and entrusting it to the tailors, dressmakers and specialists out there today? Kathy: "I would tell them that they will not look at clothing the same way again. Having clothes made for you is special, and wearing them makes you feel powerful. Where mass production makes us fit into average, bespoke empowers us to be fully who we are." Me: Well thank you Kathy, it has been lovely to hear a bit about your journey and have some of your insights.  If you have been inspired by Kathy's designs click here to find her online at StanfordRow.com where you can find designs tailor made to you! Till next time, take care everyone.  -Achu Abraham

Bond with style...

In the 2006 Bond movie Casino Royale, Daniel Craig wears several Sunspel shirts. Most notable the blue poloshirt as seen in the picture on the left. Based on a classic 1950s Sunspel design made for the Italian Riviera, this polo shirt is 100% cotton and warp knitted on old lace machines. The garment is a classic, fitted retro design available in navy, black and russet (red).

Lindy Hemming - costume designer Casino Royale: "I have dressed so many different characters in film and theatre in Sunspel because they are classic, timeless and beautifully made. With Daniel Craig as the new Bond, I thought it would be a perfect collaboration of quality and Britishness to ask Sunspel to create all his t-shirts, polo shirts and underwear. He looks very sexy and happy in their clothing."

Available on the Official Sunspel website
-http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=DruclYqPxnE&subid=&offerid=191965.1&type=10&tmpid=5700&RD_PARM1=http%3A//www.sunspel.com/euro/mens/polo-shirts/riviera-polo-shirt-navy.html 

The first promotional image for Skyfall features Bond in Orlebar Brown Setter Sky swimming shorts

Get your pair at-
Orlebar Brown UK website-http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/click?id=DruclYqPxnE&subid=&offerid=250727.1&type=10&tmpid=9701&u1=orlebar&RD_PARM1=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.orlebarbrown.co.uk%2Fsetter%2Fsky%2F;
(or) Orlebar Brown USA-http://www.orlebarbrown.com/setter/sky/

How to get your college wear right

Trade your bow tie for a key-ring, and your wing-tips for a pair of high-tops

Less is more

In order to look your most gold medal-ready, the first step is to stay clear of any accessories. A sporty watch at the most, or a good pair of sunglasses that will mean an instant style upgrade to your look. This minimalism doesn't mean you have to look average Joe though, and colour blocking can be a useful tool to keep your basic shirt-and-jeans - combo interesting. Think outside the box by matching a pair of bright coloured jeans, with a dark shade of blue.

Shorts
Even if you're name doesn't rhyme with Angelina Jolie, showing some (right) leg can do a lot for your sporty look. Missoni delivers their two-layer shorts in a sporty hybrid fabric, and Corneliani brings a preppy pair of white shorts, which can be rolled up above the knee for a more personal touch.

Contrast
When putting the emphasize on style while rocking the sporty look, nothing is more important than the game of contrast. This means pairing up your gym-ready attire with a perfectly cut Gucci blazer, outstanding Canali dress shirt, or a sophisticated Salvatore Ferragamo sleeveless sweater. In case you decide to wear a fancy blazer, wear it with a simple round neck t-shirt or polo underneath, so you won't have to worry about losing your sport-cred

Shoes
Wearing running shoes when not running, is a serious felony. So when you go for sneakers, opt for those with particular detailing. Jimmy Choo has their star-studded high-top sneakers, and for something less NBA there's also the classic pair of Dsquared2 sneakers, which come in a multitude of coloured accents. However, if sneakers just don't float your boat, a comfortable pair of slip-ons will be exactly what you need in order to run the game like a true gent.

Look 1: Baseball cap Borsalino; Sweater, belt and 
pants Roberto Cavalli.

Look 2: Sunglasses D&G; sweater Corneliani

 

Look 3: Dress shirt Salvatore Ferragamo;

T-shirt Corneliani; shorts Roberto Cavalli; Sunglasses Wilde.

Shorts & Shoes: Look (4, 5, 6)#

Contrast Look (7, 8, 9)*

#

Look4: Baseball cap Borsalino; dress shirt Canali; sweater and shorts Missoni; sneakers Dsquared2.

Look 5: Baseball cap Borsalino; jacket Larusmiani; dress shirt Gucci; belt Roberto Cavalli; shorts Corneliani; shoes Jimmy Choo. 

Look 6: Sunglasses D&G; body warmer and tie Larusmiani; dress shirt Canali; pants Gucci; shoes Jimmy Choo.

*

Look 7: Baseball cap Borsalino; blazer Larusmiani; T-shirt Corneliani; pants Gucci; shoes Jimmy Choo.
Look 8: Golf cap Borsalino; Sleeveless sweater Salvatore Ferragamo; polo Corneliani; belt and pants Roberto Cavalli; Shoes Gucci.      
Look 9: Blazer Gucci; polo Roberto Cavalli; shorts Corneliani; shoes Jimmy Choo.

How to wear a tie bar

These days, the suited man looks naked without a tie bar – and amateurish if he doesn't observe these five rules to looking dapper

1. Always the bar, never the pin. Unless you want a perforated tie collection.

2. It should not only clip together the two ends of the tie, but also secure them to the shirt's placket.

3. Position the tie bar between the third and fourth buttons of the shirt. Any lower will obscure it behind your jacket; any higher looks peculiar.

4. The bar should never extend across more than three quarters of the tie's breadth. If you've acquired a super-skinny tie, you need to downsize your clip. No excuses.

5. Avoid bling. The bar should enhance not distract(and if it's vintage, even better).

A complete Guide to Suits

Learn to suit up properly and everything else follows.
Whether you're an office guy who needs to look sharp for the competition, or a creative type who dresses up because he likes to, the suit is the basic building block of looking good. It's a timeless, ever adaptable, sometimes maligned, but never improved uniform. Consider the roots of that word: uni, as in a universally good idea to save your ass from the danger of too much choice; form, as in the opposite of formless, sloppy, or unfocused. We'll get to the specifics of lapel widths and armholes and vents and how to do it right, but let's first agree that this is where dressing like a man begins. Get the basics down and then you can lose yourself in perfecting the details—what the ever dapper Tom Wolfe once approvingly called the sartorial "mania for marginal differences." And that's when things get interesting.

1. What the Twenty-first- Century Suited Man Looks Like

Check out David Beckham here and you'll see more than just a sharp-dressed man—you'll see a completely contemporary man. What's the secret? The trimness of the suit? Sure. The elegance of the details? Totally. But look a little closer and you'll notice what's not here: no aggressive plaids, no I'm-the-man pinstripes, no four-button jacket. Instead, the message is smart, confident, thoroughly put together. He makes a statement by not making one—or at least looking as if he's not trying so hard to make one. Like the best in modern design, his suit is simple and streamlined, perfectly crafted. That's the look you want.

2. More Than Ever, It's About Fit
That's my mantra . Doesn't matter what kind of suit you're investing in, whether it's Rs 5000 or Rs 5,00,000 , flannel or seersucker, two-button or three. We've seen men in cheap but well-tailored suits who look like a million bucks. The thing's got to fit right, or else there's no point in wearing it. Question is, what's the right fit, and how do you get it?

A. Take It from the Top
A good suit should hug your shoulders, not slouch off them. Most guys think they're a size larger than they are—say, a 42 regular instead of a 40. When buying a suit, go ahead and try sizing down. When you pull on the jacket, there should be a firmness to it. You should snap to attention and stand taller. If it doesn't fit right in the shoulders, don't buy it.

B. Lose the Flab
Think about the width of the sleeves. This is an obsession of ours at A² Fashion. For pretty much every photo shoot, we have a tailor slim down the sleeves, trimming them of excess fabric. It cuts a mean figure.

C. Show Some Cuff
Your suit sleeves should end just above the hinges of your wrists, so a quarter to half inch of shirt cuff shows. It's like the frame on a painting—the elegant finishing touch.

D. Taper, Taper, Taper
Your jacket should contour to your body. Have a tailor nip it at the sides. This will accentuate your shoulders—whether you've got strong ones or not.

E. Break It Down
We like flat-front pants, cut slim, with very little break at the ankle. This produces a long, clean look. Your pants should just clip the tops of your shoes, not bunch up over them.

3. Wanna Step It Up? Nail the Finer Points
You know how a suit should fit. But what about all the details that define the style of a suit? You've got countless options. Here are the ones that matter most, the ones that make for an infallible suit.

F. Start with the Lapels
Nothing does more to dictate a suit's character than the lapel. We like a slim one, about two inches at its widest point. It's modern without being rock-star skinny.

G. Go for Two
We swear by a two-button suit jacket. Sure, a three-button that's cut well can do the job, but a two-button is much more consistently reliable, no matter your shape or size. We typically opt for ones with low-button stances, because they create a long, slimming torso. They're foolproof.

H. Ticket, Please
Ticket pocket? Sure. If you're into more of a British-dandy vibe, go for it.

I. Cause a Flap
We like a traditional flap pocket. There's something a bit too '90s about those slit pockets

J. Feel Free to Vent
Finally, don't ignore the back of the jacket. It plays an integral role in a suit's character. Generally, we prefer a center vent; it's unobtrusive and keeps the lines of the suit clean and simple. Side vents, like these here, make more of a statement. They're a bit more...rakish

4. To Cuff or Not to Cuff
Designer Michael Bastian on how the right call can make or break a suit

"I like cuffs on pants of just about any fabric. Of course, when you're dealing with heavier corduroys and tweeds, the cuffs serve a purpose: They give the pants some weight, so they fall better. I say, if you're gonna go for a cuff, go for it; make it at least an inch and a quarter deep. As for the break, 90 percent of guys keep it classic, where the front of your pants hits the top bit of your shoes and the back of them touches the tops of your heels. That always works—but if you know what you're doing, then you can play around a bit and show a little ankle. Bring a pair of shoes to the tailor's to get the length just right and always follow that old rule 'Measure twice, cut once.' It's easy to go a little shorter, but it's impossible to go a little longer."

5. How to Suit Your Shape
Shelly here is about five feet four and, well, not exactly runway skinny. But even without hitting the gym, he looks like a new man by choosing the right suit. Anyone who's short or a bit heavyset should take notes.

Before

• An overly roomy suit—even a pricey one like this—makes you look sloppy.

• Avoid long suit jackets. They actually make your legs look shorter.

• Excess fabric, especially below the knee, adds pounds.

After

Be honest with yourself. Admit you're short and buy short-length suits.

• Wear a pocket square. It brings the focus to your chest, not your belly.

• A lower button stance creates long lines, essentially stretching you out.

• Show some cuff to lengthen the look of your arms.

• A pant leg with very little break will help you look taller.

• Big man, solid shoe. Choose shoes that have a substantial sole. You need something to anchor your weight.

6. Get Thee to a Good Tailor: It's the Wisest Money You'll Ever Spend 
The right tailor can make a Rs 3000 suit look like Rs30,000, and he can make that  suit worth every penny. There's not a magazine shoot where they don't enlist their tailor . For your purposes, the trick is knowing what needs to be done and then knowing how to manage your tailor. Don't let him tell you how much of a break you want in your trousers: You tell him "I'm the boss". 

7. Go Short—Shorter Than You Think
Your Suit Is (Probably) Too Long

You might have noticed, on the runways and in our blogs, that guys are wearing much shorter suit jackets these days. And it's a look we like. Partly because it goes with the slimmer, trimmer suit style, and also because most guys wear their suits too long.

Here's the deal: You should be able to easily cup your hands beneath your suit jackets. Going full-on Thom Browne short isn't for everyone, but there's no denying the impact of this wave. The average suit at J.Crew or Club Monaco is cut considerably shorter than it was five years ago. The days of the average guy wearing a three-to-five-button suit are thankfully behind us

8 ...And When It's Muggy and Miserable, Keep Your Cool
When the temperature surges past seventy or so, it's time to shelve your wool suits and go lightweight. Yes, khaki is probably the best-known of the summer suits, but don't limit yourself: Designers are doing a range of cotton options, including navy, black, and even plaid. Whether you have the cojones to pull off a white one is your call. Other go-to cotton options include seersucker (go with gray or pale blue stripes) and whipcord (which has ridges like corduroy—without the fuzziness). Finally, there's linen, the lightest material of them all. Just make sure yours is cut sharp and slim, unlike the stuff you see flopping in the sea breeze in the Florida Keys

9. It Might Get Loud...So Mute It
We dig a patterned suit, but when we show one in the magazine, or wear one ourselves, we like to keep it subtle. Our aim is to inject a bit of personality without making the guy look like a buffoon. Two examples:

Don't Look Like Pee-Wee Herman
Right now, we really like a shadow plaid suit, like the one here. It's more of a suggestion of plaid than a full-on one, like a classic Prince of Wales. It's easy to wear and offers just enough oomph

Go for a Thinner Pin
For pinstripes, we tend to avoid bold Wall Street stripes and go with either a fine-line pinstripe (tightly spaced superthin stripes) or a solf chalk stripe on a heavyweight flannel, like the one on the right. Both will elicit compliments, not guffaws.

10. Rock a Suit That Rocks
Mark Ronson explains why he quit dressing like a Beastie Boy and started suiting up

"I think style is influenced by the music you like at any given time. At 13 to 15, I was happy listening to the Happy Mondays and going to raves, so I was wearing baggy striped pants and platform rave shoes. Then, from 18 to 26, it was pretty much Beastie Boys 101: shell-toe Adidas. But I started wearing suits every day after I did a shoot inspired by French New Wave films. When Madeline [Weeks, GQ's fashion director] told me New Wave would be the inspiration, I watched alain Delon in Le Samouraï and Jean-Paul Belmondo in Breathless. After the shoot, I was just like 'Shit, I want to dress like this every day!' I think I ended up somewhere between French New Wave, the Beatles in '64, and the jazz musicians on the back of all those great Blue Note covers.

"In 2008, I was producing a record by the Kaiser Chiefs and wearing suits every day. But I was living out of a hotel and eventually ran out of clean shirts, so I had to wear a polo and a pair of black jeans. Nobody would pay attention to me that day. Finally I was like, "Oi! What the fuck? Listen to me!' And Ricky from the band was like, 'Why? You look like a teenager.' People look at you differently when you grow up and wear clothes that fit you better."

"My suit game changed completely after doing my GQ shoot. It's really a golden moment when your suit fits nice and slim, and that includes your shirt and tie and even your shoes. It all needs to slim down—that realization was eye-opening for me.—Kobe Bryant